BIRD ARTICLES

THE TOP TEN BIRD KILLERS
A MISCONCEPTION ABOUT BIRDS
A PARROT'S BILL OF RIGHTS
BEHIND THE SCENES TO THE BENCH – A Dual Perspective
HOW DOES SHOWING AFFECT EDUCATION?
EARLY CHICK MORTALITY

THE TOP TEN BIRD KILLERS
by Margaret A. Wissman, D.V.M., D.A.B.V.P.

Although we all like to think that we always have our bird's best interests at heart, it is impossible to foresee every single household danger that our avian friends can get into. But it is wise to be aware of the most common dangers to our pet birds, so that we can avoid those situations. And, of course, it is an excellent idea to have a well-stocked first-aid kit on hand at all times, in the event that a mishap does occur. Be sure to discuss emergency plans with your avian vet and have a list of emergency phone numbers available.

Many birds die before their time as a result of mistakes made by their owners, either unintentionally or through ignorance. Learn about the top ten reasons birds die, and just perhaps, this information may save some birds' lives.

1. WATER
Deprivation of water can also have fatal results. The most common reason for this happening is due to a water bottle malfunctioning. If the delivery tube's ball sticks, or if a bird stuffs an object into the tube, effectively blocking it, a bird will be deprived of water. If an owner doesn't check that all water bottles are working every day, or if it is not noticed that the water level in the bottle is not going down, it may be days before an owner recognizes a problem. Rarely, the unthinkable happens and a bird's water bowl may go unfilled for days, or the bird may empty the bowl, which goes unnoticed, resulting in fatal dehydration. Most birds will die if water is withheld for three days, unless lots of moisture-laden foods are fed.

I recently treated a peach-faced lovebird that was severely dehydrated due to a malfunctioning water bottle. The owner had changed the water two days previously, and hadn't noticed a problem until she saw her lovebird wobbling on the perch, eyes closed. She rushed him to my practice, when she had discovered that the water bottle wasn't working, and with treatment and good support care, he survived. I have also dealt with several aviaries that used a water delivery system, and one or a series of waterers malfunctioned or were turned off, resulting in the death of birds. Water, whether in a bottle or bowl, should be checked daily.

2. UNCLIPPED WINGS
If a bird is to be allowed freedom outside of its cage, its wings should be properly clipped. This means that it can glide gracefully to the ground. If the wings are not clipped correctly, or if several primary wing feathers have grown back unbeknownst to the owner, an alarmed bird may end up flying erratically around the house, or worse, launching itself to the top of a tree! Some avian vets actually have a name for birds that have had run-ins with ceiling fans (shredded tweet!) If a bird is frightened, it may mistake a window or mirror for open spaces, and end up with a concussion. Contrary to popular belief, birds RARELY break their necks with such an injury. In all my years of practice, I have only seen two birds with compression fractures in neck vertebrae as a result of flying into an object. They can, and do, however, develop concussions, bleeding inside the brain, fractures, lacerations, ruptured air sacs and other serious, potentially deadly injuries, however.

I can't tell you the number of times that a client has told me that their bird, although flighted, never flies, yet they are calling to inform me that it has just flown away! The perils outdoors are too numerous to list.

Birds indoors have flown into pots of boiling water, open commodes, windows, mirrors, fondue pots and an active fireplace, to name just a few of the household hazards that I have seen.

3. Toxic Fumes
Non-stick cookware and other household items possessing a non-stick surface made from polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) can be toxic to birds. If overheated (temperatures over 530 degrees F), the gas released is extremely dangerous to birds and can result in death. However, even with normal usage, some fumes may also be released, so non-stick cookware, drip pans, irons, ironing board covers and heat-lamps with a PTFE coating should not be used around birds.

Passive inhalation of cigarette, cigar and pipe smoke can cause chronic eye problems, skin irritation and respiratory disease. Birds that live in homes with smokes may develop coughing, sneezing, sinusitis and conjunctivitis, which may resolve spontaneously, if the bird is moved to a location free of smoke. Some birds exposed to chronic second-hand smoke will develop secondary bacterial infections, as well, which can prove fatal.

Many common disinfectants and household cleaning agents release fumes that can be toxic or fatal to birds. Chlorine bleach, phenols and ammonia can all have dangerous vapors that can cause irritation, toxicosis and even death.

Common household aerosol products, such as perfume, deodorant and hairspray, can cause respiratory problems in birds. They may cause severe inflammation and difficulty breathing, and after large or direct exposure, death can occur. Any pump spray or aerosol using a propellant can be dangerous to birds, and these should not be used around birds.

Natural gas leaks can cause sudden death in birds. Any type of heater, used improperly or with inadequate ventilation can be deadly to birds. Carbon monoxide, an odorless, colorless and tasteless gas, can also be fatal to birds. Anyone with pet birds should have a working carbon monoxide monitoring device in the home, preferably in the room where the birds are kept. Second-hand smoke from marijuana can also cause severe depression and regurgitation. Burning foods, overheated cooking oils and smoke from a fire can cause fatal inhalations.

4. Trauma
A bird with properly clipped wings may develop the "cute" habit of climbing down off of its cage to seek out favorite family members. A bird walking on the floor, especially a small one, may be easily injured by people who don't see it. Little Bad Boy, a green female budgerigar patient of mine, was one of the lucky ones; she survived being stepped on by her owner. She did suffer a broken pelvis and internal injuries that resulted in her requiring surgery. Another client with a beloved pet Quaker parakeet is still grieving over his death; her little bird was accidentally closed in a sliding glass door, and he died instantly. He was following his owner out the door when she slid the door shut behind her, not knowing that he was right behind her.

I have dealt with the deaths of many birds that had been stepped on, closed in doors, vacuumed up and one even was squashed when it was playing under a bandana on a desk! The owner (a student) had come home and tossed her textbooks onto her desk, instantly killing her parrotlet. Birds have been squished by recliners and fold-out beds and have also been killed by owners sitting on them when they have crawled under cushions. Little birds have been killed by computer printers, after climbing into the cartridge area. Larger birds have been electrocuted by chewing through electric cords. One sun conure that was playing in a pile of clothing in the laundry basket was drowned when its owner dumped the clothes into the washing machine, closed the lid, and "washed" the bird with the dirty clothes. An Amazon parrot that is a patient of mine climbed into the open dryer and the unsuspecting owner closed the door and turned on the dryer. Fortunately, the dryer was only set on "fluff" and the bird was only briefly tumbled when the owner realized what had happened. If the heat had been on, the bird might have died or suffered serious injury. Birds have also hopped off owners' shoulders and into open refrigerators and freezers.

5. Other Animals
Birds should never be left unsupervised outside of the cage, especially if other animals, including other birds, share the same house. Even if a pet dog or cat has acted completely trustworthy around a pet bird, it should not be trusted. Many birds have died as a result of another housepet either "playing" too exuberantly with a bird, or from the pet biting or stepping on the pet bird.

For example, a client of mine had recently purchased a young military macaw, Kelly. Their medium-sized dog had been introduced to the new baby, and it had reacted with interest, trying to lick and sniff the bird. They hadn't even owned Kelly for one week when, left unattended for just a moment to answer the phone, the dog bit through the bird's beak, causing severe bleeding and injury to the still soft beak. Luckily, Kelly survived the bite, and with time, the beak has regrown and now appears quite normal, but the owners spent many anguished hours, not to mention a lot of money, working with me to keep the beak tissue infection-free, as it healed.

Birds may also injure each other. Lovebirds are notorious for nipping the toes of birds housed in neighboring cages. Toes are the most commonly injured body part, and bleeding may be serious, and even fatal. Especially with the onset of puberty, birds that previously got along together, may begin fighting, with fatal results.

Any animal bite should be considered extremely serious, possibly life-threatening. The bacteria found in the saliva and the mouth of a mammal can cause fatal septicemia (infection in the bloodstream) of a bird in very short order. Cat bites should be considered the most dangerous, as the Pasteurella bacteria commonly found in the feline mouth, are extremely hazardous to birds. Even a simple puncture by a tooth can result in a fatal infection. Scratches from claws are also extremely dangerous, as the risk of infection is very real.

6. Toxic Food or Plants
There are several foods that are very toxic to birds. Chocolate is digested in a different way by birds, and the metabolite, theobromide, is very toxic to them. Baker's chocolate and dark chocolate are the most toxic, and milk chocolate, although less toxic, is still a forbidden food for birds. Caffeine is also metabolized differently in birds, which also results in toxic compounds. There is some data that indicates that some varieties of avocado are toxic to birds, with perhaps the skin and pit being the most dangerous parts. Although unlikely to kill a bird, to be on the safe side, avocado should not be fed to birds. Onions can cause a fatal hemolytic anemia in dogs and cats, but since birds' red blood cells have a nucleus, this may protect the cells from the severe injury that occurs in other species. However, until this topic is studied, it is best to not feed onions to birds.

Some houseplants can be toxic, even fatal, to birds. Lists of potentially toxic plants have been published often in Bird Talk. Outdoor plants can also kill birds. I had a client with a pet cockatiel that died as a result of oleander toxicosis. Oleander is a beautiful flowering plant often used for landscaping in Florida where I live. Most Floridians can recognize this dangerous plant, however, newcomers to the Sunshine State may not know about it. This client, new to Florida, had placed some oleander branches in her cockatiel's cage, so that he could chew on the leaves and bark. When she next checked on her pet, he was already dead! It is very important that owners be able to identify dangerous plants that may be found in their bird's environment.

7. Hand-Feeding Mistakes
There is no doubt in my mind that many a baby bird has expired as a result of hand-feeding mishaps. Unweaned baby birds should not be sold or given to inexperienced hand-feeders for this reason. It is not necessary for a baby bird to be hand-fed by the family purchasing it in order for it to become "bonded" to them. Budgies are routinely tamed down as pets once they have fledged by the parents, and this can also occur with larger birds fed-out by the parents. Baby birds can also be hand-fed by the aviculturist, and be visited by the new owners to allow the babies to become accustomed to their new families. Weaned birds can be sold to owners, and they will settle in with their new families in no time. So, there is no reason for a baby to be fed by an inexperienced owner.

There are many different things that can go wrong during the hand-rearing process, including feeding formula improperly (mixed incorrectly, stored incorrectly, fed at wrong temperature), delivering the food improperly (dirty utensils, forcing food into the baby resulting in aspiration pneumonia, injuring the mouth or crop with feeding equipment), poor husbandry techniques (keeping the baby at the incorrect temperature, not practicing good hygiene, indiscriminate use of antibiotics), just to mention just a few potential problems.

Most commonly, babies are kept at the incorrect temperature, or the food is fed at too low of a temperature, resulting in a slowed down gastrointestinal tract, which can be fatal, if not corrected in time. If the baby is forced to eat, it may struggle and end up inhaling the baby formula, resulting in aspiration pneumonia. If a large amount of food is inhaled, the baby will die immediately, but if a small amount of food ends up in the respiratory tract, the aspiration pneumonia may result in the baby suffering for days, trying desperately to breathe, before it dies.

Infection is common in hand-feeding babies that are not cared for properly. Bacterial infection, fungal infection and polyoma virus infection are the most common infectious diseases in baby birds, and all can prove fatal.

Hand-feeding is best left up to those with experience.

8. Owner-Caused Diseases
Although it is fun to take baby birds to bird shows, swap meets and club meetings, it is very dangerous for the babies. Infections can spread to baby birds, even through the air, even if the owner is diligent about not allowing any direct contact with the babies. Many diseases can prove fatal to babies, especially polyoma virus. Adult birds are also at risk from exposure to other birds from the same sources, as well as from trips to the pet store, as well. Having parties where owners bring their birds can also spread disease. Unfortunately, a bird can carry a disease, and be able to pass it to others without appearing ill. Proventricular dilatation disease (PDD), chlamydiosis (psittacosis), Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD) and pacheco's disease may all be spread by birds that MAY appear healthy in physical appearance. Giardia, a one-celled protozoal organism, can be spread by a bird ingesting food or water contaminated by the droppings of an infested bird. Remember that we don't even have tests for some of the diseases that birds can have! Deliberately exposing birds to other birds, even if they have been vet checked, is dangerous and should be avoided, or kept to an absolute minimum.

Many bird owners make a common mistake when adding a new pet to the family. Regardless of the origin of the bird, and any testing run on the new bird, it should be quarantined for at least one month, preferably two, before it is introduced into the home. There is very sound logic for this. If the bird is harboring an infectious agent, the stress of moving the bird to a new home may precipitate it breaking with signs of clinical illness. Not every person can afford to test a new bird for everything we have diagnostic lab exams for, so quarantine can often protect the family's established pet birds from the risk of disease. And conversely, a pet bird may have a sub-clinical infection that it could pass to the new bird, so quarantine also protects the newly acquired bird.

A client of mine had two pet birds, a cockatiel and a quaker. They bought a cherry-headed conure from a pet store, and noticed after about a month that it wasn't acting well. They had put the new bird in their bird room with their other two birds immediately upon bringing it home. The little conure tested positive for chlamydiosis, and because they did not quarantine the new bird, I ended up treating all three birds with injections (once a week) for almost two months. Follow-up testing showed that all three birds seemed over the infection. Then about four months later, they called me because the quaker wasn't acting well. When I inspected their bird room, there was a new green budgie in there! They told me that they had caught the budgie when it landed on the husband's shoulder outside their home. Instead of quarantining him, they once again put the new bird into the same room as their pets. I tested the budgie, and the tests showed that the budgie was shedding the chlamydial organism, as was the quaker! So, all the birds had to undergo treatment for chlamydiosis once again! Although none of the birds died, they had been quite ill. Testing and quarantining might have prevented this.

Owners must understand that it is dangerous for pet birds to have direct contact with their owner's mouths. We carry bacteria and fungi that can cause serious infection, or even death, in our birds. Birds should never be kissed with an open mouth, nor should birds be allowed any contact with the owner's teeth, tongue, lips or saliva.

9. Heat Exposure
Exotic birds, while from warm, tropical climates, cannot tolerate excessive heat. Children, dogs, cats, other pets and birds should never be left in a car during warmer weather, even with the windows partially lowered. Temperatures inside a car can rapidly reach lethal levels.

Heat can also kill birds in a more insidious way. An owner may place a cage outdoors in the shade in the morning, for fresh air, and as the sun slides across the sky during the day, the bird may end up in the direct sun by the afternoon. With no place to escape the sun, a bird may rapidly develop hyperthermia and die. An overheated bird will begin panting, and with panting, will also begin getting dehydrated. Most birds suffering from hyperthermia will try to get out of the sun, and may try to bathe to cool off, if possible. If the bird's body temperature rises high enough, it will seizure and die. Hyperthermia can also occur if a bird's cage is relocated by a window, with no shade to escape the sun. Hyperthermia can also occur in baby birds, if a brooder is set at too high of a temperature, or if the brooder malfunctions.

10. Sleeping With Birds
Birds should sleep in their cages. Birds that are allowed to sleep in bed with their owners are at serious risk for suffocation or life-threatening trauma. Even though an owner has slept with the pet bird for a while, there is always the chance that the bird will get lodged between the waterbed and frame, smothered under a pillow, or be rolled over on during sound sleep. It has happened all too often to allow such a risk. Although it is fun to read or watch television in bed or on the sofa with a pet bird, if there is a chance that you might doze off, it is time to return the bird to its cage.

Although we cannot foresee every possible accident or problem that can occur with our pet birds, by knowing the top ten bird killers, you can avoid the most common dangers.

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A MISCONCEPTION ABOUT BIRDS
by Francis D. Hilario

There is often a misconception about birds and the use of their beaks. When a bird approaches with his beak, a person’s initial thought is often that the bird will bite. However, a bird’s beak is a “third hand”, which is used as a means of balance or to move from one place to another when the bird does not feel like flying. A person’s sudden reaction to this may actually cause the bird to bite.

Was the bird really intending to bite the person or was the bite caused by the person’s misinterpretation of the bird’s actions? Unfortunately, most often times, it is the latter. Unless you see other signs, which may include constriction of the bird’s pupils or his top head feathers up, his most likely not intending to bite you; he is just trying to cling and use his beak for support.

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A PARROT'S BILL OF RIGHTS
by Stewart A. Metz, M.D.

1. GET TO KNOW ABOUT PARROTS BEFORE YOU BRING ME HOME
I am not a domesticated pet like a dog or cat. I still have the spirit of the jungle in me. I have special needs which you may find it hard to fill. Please don't learn these too late for my well-being. And please don't acquire on of my cousins wild from the jungle -- it will jeopardize his survival and well-being, and that won't be a party for you either!

2. GIVE ME THE LARGEST HOME POSSIBLE
I am use to flying through rainforests or savannas. I have given up this great gift for your pleasure. At the very least, give me enough room to flap my wings and exercise. And I need toys for my amusement and wood to chew-otherwise; I might confuse your Home with the forest and its trees.

3. GIVE ME A NUTRITIOUS DIET
I need a wide variety of fresh and nutritious foods, even if they take time to prepare. I cannot survive on seed alone. Take time to learn what my needs are.

4. LET ME HAVE A "SOCIAL LIFE"
I am a gregarious flock animal -- but I am not one of you. I need lots of socialization to learn how to act with you, and with my siblings. I also need to have adequate quality time with you every day-no matter what your schedule or other needs are. I am a living, feeling creature. Above all, I need to be able to have complete trust in you, and count on your predictability in looking after me -- every day.

5. LET ME BE CLEAN
I may like to drop food or even throw it, but I need meticulous cleanliness to be healthy. My skin itches without frequent showers, the barbs of my feathers won't seal if they become oily and, worst of all, I may become ill if my food or water is not always sanitary.

6. I NEED MY OWN DOCTOR
You may not understand my physiology and therefore you may not recognize it early on when I get sick. And it may be too late when you do; because I hide my illnesses (remember what I said about my being an animal of the jungle, where there are lots of predators). And I need an avian vet -- a specialist (no HMOs for me please). If you can't afford one, perhaps you shouldn't have taken me home.

7. PLEASE DON'T PUNISH ME
Just as I don't always understand your peculiarities, you may not understand mine. I don't TRY to get in trouble -- remember, a house is not the jungle. If I do screw up, don't yell at me and never hit me. I have sensitive ears and I may never trust you again if you strike me. Hands are sometimes scary things to us (why in the world would you not be zygodactylous like us?). Even more importantly, we don't learn by punishment. We are gentle creatures who only strike back to protect ourselves; we learn through patience and love.

8. SPEAK MY "LANGUAGE"
I know you get upset with me when I knock over my water bowl, throw food, scream or pluck my feathers. I don't do these to annoy you-I am probably trying to tell you something (perhaps that I am hurting, lonely, or sad.). Learn to speak MY (body) language. Remember that I, alone of all creatures on this planet, learn to speak yours!

9. SEE ME AS AN INDIVIDUAL
I am a unique and feeling being...No two of us are alike. Please don't be disappointed in me if I don't talk like you wanted, or can't do the tricks that your friend's parrot can do. But if you pay close attention to me (and I always empathize with you, whether you know it or not), I will show you a unique being who will give you so much more than talking and playing...Give me a chance to show you who I am; I think you'll find the effort worth it. And remember -- I am not an ornament; I do not enhance ANY living room decor. And I am not a status symbol -- if you use me as such, I might nip at your up-turned nose!

10. SHARE YOUR LOVE WITH ME
Above all, please remember that you are my Special Person. I put all my trust and faith in you... We parrots are used to being monogamous (no bar-hopping for us!). So please don't go away for long periods or give me away -- that would be a sadness from which I may never recover. If that seems to be asking a lot, remember -- you could have learned about my needs BEFORE bringing me home. Even having a baby or taking a new job isn't a fair reason -- you made a commitment to me FIRST! And if you think that you must leave me because you might die, provide for me forever after you leave. I may live to a ripe old age but I can't provide for myself. Remember I'm in a small cage amongst people who are not of my blood.

11. YOUR RIGHTS
You have lots of rights, but I can only assure one. And that is, if you treat me the way I described above, I will reward you with unwavering love, humor, knowledge, beauty, dedication and a sense of wonder and awe you haven't felt since you were a child. When you took me home, you became my Flock Leader, indeed, my entire universe -- for life. I would hang the moon and stars for you if I could. We are one in Heart and Soul.

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BEHIND THE SCENES TO THE BENCH – A Dual Perspective
by Julie Mitchell

When I say “show”, most of you are going to roll your eyes back into your head and probably consider taking a nap. It’s a natural reaction to something you think you’re not interested in. It’s ok because I get the same reaction from my parents, my family and my non-bird friends whenever the subject of birds comes up in any conversation. I’m sure you find it the same way.

Let’s put it in a different light . . . . appreciation. I don’t show dogs, but I very seldom miss watching the Westminster Dog Show every year. I can appreciate the different breeds of dogs, the effort that it takes to get them to that level of a show and the overall quality presented at a show of that caliber. Think about it – don’t you appreciate looking at a nice bird? That is a benefit of witnessing a bird show.

Did you know that you can be a participant of a show and never have entered a bird! You can do this by sitting in the gallery and listening to the Judge critique the exhibitors on their birds or volunteering to assist on the show committee in some form or fashion. You may have some interest in learning about eventually entering your own bird. Either of the above will help get you started down that path.

Let’s say I want to show, now what?

Determine if you have a bird that fits the “standard” for the Society that the bird will be shown under. Each Society will have a panel of judges that have extensive past experience in both breeding and successfully exhibiting their own birds. Each Society has its own standards as to how to become a judge such as apprenticing under a “seasoned” veteran so many times, passing a written exam and having shown their own birds to a championship, or something similar.

The standards for SPBE, ALBS and NCS are at the end of this article and can be viewed there. All standards will speak to Conformation, Condition, Deportment and Color.

Conformation is how the bird is put together. Does the body flow, is the crest, body and tail proportionate to each other? What is the bird’s overall shape? Does the head fit the body? Do the wing tips cross each other? Does the bird have a big eye? Does the bird have faults due to hereditary problems/issues such as balding (Lutinos/Fallows)? How big is the bird (not to be confused with how much does the bird weigh)? Special emphasis should be placed on body length. Does the bird have size and this is not to be confused with weight.

Condition (you will hear this word again), this is the condition that the bird is in. Does it have all of its feathers, i.e., central tail feathers, crest feathers, flights? Are the feathers tight? Do they have a gloss to them? Are they any signs of a molt?

Deportment is the way the bird sits on the perch. Does the bird slump on the perch? Is there a straight line from back of head to tip of tail? Is there a dropped tail?

Color/Markings are the deepness of the colors or the size of the cheek patch or the intensity. Birds should be marked symmetrically, meaning the left side should be marked similar to the right side.

Also, each Society has their own set of rules and regulations regarding showing birds for that Society. Most Societies have these posted on their web sites and if you don’t have Internet access, they will be more than willing to mail you a copy. Most Societies will also have Beginner and Advanced-type Sections, some even have an Intermediate. It is important to know these rules before you begin showing. Also, they will define what you can use to show a bird (cage vs. show cage).

We could dwell all day on rules, but there’s way too many out there for each society to discuss, again, check the individual societies’ web pages for further explanation.

What do I do, to prepare?

If you decide that you have a bird that you’d like to show and you’ve checked into the requirements of that Society, what next? Preparation and Condition. These are two words that will never leave your vocabulary again, if you continue to show. Many times proper or improper Preparation and Conditioning may be the fine line difference of winning or losing. Remember, Condition was part of the Standard!

About 10 to 12 weeks prior to the show, pull any damaged tail feathers, ten to twelve weeks gives the bird ample time to grow in and restore the pulled feathers. Ideally, your bird will have recently gone through a molt so you will not have to pull old left over broken feathers. Also, make sure your bird is getting the absolute best diet possible.

About 6 weeks before the show, you will want to start spraying your bird once or twice a day with water. It is recommended that you use cold water so the bird will tighten up his feathers, which in turn will make them glossier. Once your bird gets used to this routine, you’ll come to enjoy it as much as he does. This is also the time to start show cage training (preparation) your bird (if your society requires a show cage). You want the bird to sit quietly upright on the perch while it is lifted and carried around. As part of the cage training, put it in the car and drive it around so that the bird adjusts to the motion of the car while in his “cage”. Another thing is to get up close to the cage and look into it at the bird. Also, take a dowel, slightly larger than a pencil in diameter and tap on the roof of the cage and stick the dowel in the cage to lift the bird’s tail so that he will turn.

About one week before the show, you should clip your bird’s nails, making sure that they aren’t overgrown. Long toenails prevent the bird from perching properly. If your bird is housed with other birds, this is also a good time to isolate him from them into his own cage, so that you can keep him in “Condition” for the show. This is a good time to pull the show cage out of the attic or the garage and go over it with a new coat of paint or a good thorough scrubbing, whatever it needs. It is very important to have a clean show cage the day of the show.

The day of the show – I always recommend to folks to try to attend another show before entering birds for the first time. It can be a little intimidating on the first go. You have to fill out paperwork, know your bird’s band number, color, sex, age, and many other things (this is where knowledge of those rules helps). Once the paperwork is completed and you’ve attached your show tag to the cage, you put your bird up on the bench where a show steward will take control of your bird. At that point in time, you will not be able to get your bird until the show is over.

Next, you take a seat in the gallery and listen . . . . . . . .

What if I don’t want to show?

You’ve already decided that showing is not your thing, for any number of reasons, you just don’t want to exhibit a bird, but you are quite interested in learning (fill in the blank). (for the blank: learn to breed better birds, learn if you want a bird, learn more about the bird you have, etc.,) Attend a show. Most judges are more than willing to answer questions from the gallery while judging. It is customary, that if the judge is actually in the process of judging birds, to wait until he/she has finished. Most judges will ask if anyone has any questions, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise. The judge will especially entertain questions after placing the Top Ten Novice Bench, the Advanced Bench and the Best in Show Bench. Also, once the show is over, feel free to speak with the judge and the birds’ owners. We love to talk about birds! Also, sometimes it’s a good opportunity to see rare colors or breeds that you may not always have the opportunity to see.

In one of my earlier shows, someone came up to me and asked me what we fed our birds. I didn’t really find the question odd because I just thought it might be related to the pellet vs. seed issue. I explained to her that show birds ate no differently than any other birds. She looked at me and said, “Well, you must be giving them something different from mine to make them that big, because my bird is ? that size!” And off she went . . . . . To this day, I’m still not sure she believed me.

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HOW DOES SHOWING AFFECT EDUCATION?
(A Cockatiel Exhibitor’s Perspective)
by Julie Mitchell & Leslie Huegerich

We've all heard the spay/neuter argument . . . that we should only breed for the betterment of a particular breed, to put a better temperament on the breed, make them hunt a little better, or jump a little higher. Yet, in the bird world this hasn't always been the case. Many bird owners oppose shows. These are some of the same bird owners who go home to their whiteface cockatiel and give it a little afternoon head scratch. Can you guess how that whiteface came to be in America? Well, exhibitors brought them over and developed them from a scrawny and unhealthy 60 gram bird to a nice robust cockatiel from Europe. When we look at the lovebirds in Parrots of the World and see gorgeous Madagascar Lovebirds, we wonder: "Who is keeping and taking care of these wonderful rare birds?" The answer: Exhibitors!

Many of those individuals speak at Bird Clubs of Virginia (BCV) and American Federation of Aviculture (AFA) each year. They grace the Board of Directors of some of the largest organizations in this country. Yet, there are still bird people who don't understand that if it wasn't for exhibition people around the globe, many of the rare species would not exist.

Rare Parrotlets are well taken care of by Sandee Molenda, well known speaker and breeder/exhibitor. Dr. Al Decoteau has been a judge since the early 1960's and has kept and owned many bird species that no one else has. Some birds died right out of aviculture when he lost his aviary in an electrical fire several years ago.

If local clubs do not continue to hold shows, shows will no longer be able to thrive. Without the intervention of shows and the show standard (requirements for conformation), Lutino cockatiels would still be "bald". Cockatiels would be bred for color, not the temperament that is needed to be exhibited on the show bench. Yes, there are still breeders out there that breed for temperament, but the wealth of genetic knowledge of exhibition breeders is far beyond those of the normal breeder.

In addition, many research dollars have been funded by the national organizations to promote aviculture. The International Parrotlet Society (IPS) funded a large portion of their bank account in response to Dr. Phalen's research of Avian Gastric Yeast. The National Cockatiel Society (NCS) has funded many studies that affect their species especially in the area of Psittacosis. In fact, a recent vaccine has been discovered and is currently being tested as a result. These organizations provide shows not as a means of recognition for "pretty birds", but with the knowledge that the mind of an exhibitor is usually a passionate one and one who is eager to “build a better bird”, in addition, one that thirsts for knowledge on every aspect of the species they exhibit.

Supporting shows means that clubs support the following activities.

· Closed banded breeding

· Breeding for temperament (an unstable bird never wins on the show bench)

· Planned caged breeding based not only on color, but more often times on over 15-20 years of known lineage (often 5 or more generations)

· Breeding for Conditioning. Proper diet and exercise is one of the only things that can consistently produce those shiny beautiful feathers and bright alert eyes.

· Breeding for a purpose. In an era where cockatiels are now starting to clog up our bird sanctuaries and rescues, the only reason to breed should be for improvement of the species.

· Interaction between fellow breeders in an effort to bring together common resources (i.e., Genetic discussions, disease prevention, latest veterinary breakthroughs, etc.). Exhibitors are known to necropsy their cockatiels. When you spend the cost of an African Grey on a cockatiel, and you have many of them, you tend to want to protect your flock at all costs. Cockatiels ARE NOT disposable birds to exhibitors.

While you’re contemplating whether a club has made the correct decision to sponsor a bird show, ask yourself if you've made the correct decision to let vendors in to sell birds to anyone who may walk by. The Macaws that line the shelves with price tags on them, the sweet cockatoo who has a sign that says "$1200", are good examples of birds that do not always go to well-suited homes because they are impulse buys at a Mart. Clubs have vendors because clubs have to sustain themselves. Clubs have shows because it promotes education and aviculture. The local bird people who have supported shows have actually come in to learn from the judges. Most who have actually sat down at a show for an hour or more usually understand how a show works. Take the time to listen to a judge or listen to exhibitors. You will learn a lot when you are open to the discussion.

Think about it. Bird owners were polled and cockatiels were found to be the number one pet bird in the US. Why not help people understand how to breed these birds successfully and with a purpose.

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EARLY CHICK MORTALITY

The most heartbreaking complication to occur in our aviaries is Early Chick Mortality. (ECM), and inevitably, we will all encounter this phenomenon in some form during the course of our avicultural experience. The definition of Early Chick Mortality, for the purpose of this writing, is the loss of chicks in the nest between the ages of 0 and 4 days.

The causes for this phenomenon are numerous, but seem to encompass three basic categories:

O Behavioral

O Accidental

O Physiological



The most common cause of Early Chick Mortality in cockatiels, based on my experience to date, is behavioral and usually occurs with young, inexperienced birds when they are faced with a large brood or too many chicks hatch simultaneously. In these cases, the parents voluntarily reduce the clutch size by rejecting the youngest chick. This behavior is principally due to the overburden of an unusually large clutch, thus ensuring the survival of the brood. Another behavioral cause of ECM includes the rejection of young because of visual differences such as the presence of a red-eyed chick amongst black-eyed clutchmates or a whiteface chick (covered with white down) in a nest of yellow-downed siblings. In the above situations, with careful nest monitoring, it is possible to successfully save the life of a rejected chick, but the beginner should be aware that it is risky to interfere with ANY nest during this high-risk period. Parent birds are extremely protective of their brood during their first week of life and unless the birds exit the nest or are extremely tame, there is a danger of the remaining chicks becoming injured during the removal of the rejected chick. Assuming parents allow nest inspection and a problem is identified, the chick should be removed periodically and given a supplementary feeding. This will ensure that the chick remains strong enough to beg in the nest and once the chick is 4 or 5 days old, the parents usually take over the feedings completely.


Another behaviorally-caused rejection I have witnessed occurs when chicks are FOSTERED from their natural parents due to inadequate feeding or abusiveness, such as feather picking. This behavior usually manifests itself when the relative age of the fostered chick is substantially younger or older than that of the foster parent's natural chicks. In these situations, the foster parents may not be willing or able to feed the chick and may either reject it totally or feed it with disastrous results. Ideally, the median age of fostered chicks should equal that of the natural chicks in the nest, with a variance of 2 or 3 days at the outside. If the appropriate circumstances are not present, a safer alternative may be to pull the chick for handfeeding. However, this is a substantial undertaking at such a tender age. It will be necessary to feed the chick at two-hour intervals from 6:00 AM to Midnight with one feeding at 3:00 AM for the first few days to ensure survival.


Another potential cause of Early Chick Mortality, which is difficult to diagnose with any measure of accuracy, is accidental injury in the nest. Accidental ECM, although highly speculative, appears to be either parent or sibling-caused. In these situations, unlike cases of rejection, the chick is usually found dead in the nest with a full crop. Although illness can't be ruled out without the benefit of a necropsy (postmortem exam) which is likely to be inconclusive at such a young age, it is reasonable to assume that the cause of death was accidental if the clutchmates are developing normally. Speculative causes for parental or sibling-caused injury in the nest would include occurrences as trampling, smothering or aspiration. Unfortunately, there are usually no warning signs to allow the aviculturist the opportunity to prevent ECM as a result of accidents of this nature. The most common explanation for injuries in the nest involving trampling or smothering is interference from an outside force which initiates enough fear in the parents to cause a accidental injury. For example, a "night fright" while parents occupy the nest can be lethal to newly hatched chicks. Experience has taught me that unnecessary handling of chicks under the age of 7 days is a dangerous practice. Aviculturists who are allowing their chicks to be parent- raised gain no ground by beginning to handle them earlier than 2 weeks of age, and nest cleaning should not be necessary until the chicks have reached 5 or 6 days. I do, however, recommend careful nest monitoring so that reversible ECM symptoms can be identified and corrective action taken.


The third and most mysterious cause of Early Chick Mortality is physiological. This category encompasses all aspects of physical problems running the gamut from deformities to infections to dietary problems. The physiological symptoms that I have been able to identify are:



O Excessive Weakness

O Deformity

O Nutritional Deficiency

O Infection


Excessive Weakness, although somewhat vague in description, usually has physiological implications. A chick displaying excessive weakness, due to dietary influences, poor incubation, or poor breeding practices such as inbreeding, may succumb to ECM by way of a basic law of nature, "Survival of the Fittest." In a large brood, a weak chick may not have sufficient strength to complete successfully with its clutchmates for food, and without adequate food will not survive. Early identification of this problem and supplementary feedings in the nest can be extremely successful in revitalizing a chick who is showing excessive weakness, providing there is no infection present. A second manifestation of Excessive Weakness is seen in full-term dead-in-shell chicks. In cases of this nature, when the shell is opened and the positioning of the chick is found to be correct, Excessive Weakness due to infection or genetic makeup should be considered.


Another possible cause of Early Chick Mortality is deformity; a result of improper development of the chick, possibly due to infection, genetic weakness, or dietary deficiency. I experienced an early death due to deformity in 1986 with a chick who's beak was not properly formed upon hatching. As a result, the parents refused to feed the chick, either because they were physically unable to or because they knew the chick would ultimately not survive. Because of the severity of this deformity, I chose not to administer supplementary feedings since I strongly suspected that this chick, had it survived, would never have been self-sustaining.


A particularly disturbing cause of ECM, which I was made aware of recently during a consultation with a fellow aviculturist, comprises two categories: physiological and behavioral. In this situation, a parent (in this case, the Sire) chewed the toes off his chicks, starting with the youngest. Since this was a first-breeding, the plan was to remove each parent separately for a period of time to determine which parent was responsible for the mutilation. When the male was removed, the chewing ceased and the mystery was solved. However, the interesting aspect here was that the chicks were showing abnormalities of the feet (believed to be caused by a calcium deficiency in the hen), and this could have provoked the male to initiate this action. The upside of this story is that one of the chicks did survive due to the initiation of a dietary correction. Extra calcium, in the form of MSA, manufactured by Nekton Products, and a powdered vitamin supplements were added to cooked rice which the hen eagerly devoured in her diligent attempt to raise this surviving chick on her own. Fortunately, the surviving chick (who has since feathered out as a Pearl) was the first hatched and had only minor injuries. She improved dramatically, due to the dietary supplementation, and at this writing is beginning to eat on her own.


The final and most disturbing physiological cause of ECM is illness resulting from infection. In these cases, parent birds have been known to exhibit behavior ranging from rejection to outright murder. The reality here is that this is nature's way of eliminating imperfect life-forms; however, early detection and appropriate treatment by an Avian Specialist have proven successful in these cases. In my opinion, illness in a newly-hatched chick is indicative of illness in one or both of the parents. If an entire clutch of new hatchlings are rejected or killed, the parents should be examined and treated by an Avian Specialist to determine the physiological problem. I am told that this occurrence can be strictly behavioral in cockatiels; however, since I have never experienced this situation, I assume it is rare.


Surprisingly, adult birds can harbor an infection which may not cause them visual distress, but excessive Early Chick Mortality, due to the transmission of infection is a warning sign which should not be ignored. It is wiser to keep fewer birds for which you can afford an occasional consultation with an Avian Specialist and appropriate diagnostic testing, than to allow a physiological disorder a chance to establish itself in your flock.


Experiencing Early Chick Mortality in some form is inevitable for the aviculturist, whether in the form of a full-term dead-in-shell chick or a 2-3 day old baby found dead in the nest for reasons apparently unknown. This is one aspect of aviculture I find difficult to take lightly and will never stop trying to understand it. The more we learn about this phenomenon, the fewer ECM victims there will be in our aviaries.

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